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Samakhusi, Kathmandu, Nepal
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Tel: +977 1 6910345 / 9741 169528
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Kyajori Peak Climbing

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing in Nepal

In the Khumbu Himal, running just north of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepal - Tibet. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. Over the years, on continents far and wide, we have searched for "perfect" peaks to guide. Our criteria have been pretty limiting, and climb after climb, summit after summit, though we have enjoyed them all, usually there is some serious downside to any particular route. In the Khumbu, which we have visited often, we think that Kyajo Ri comes closest to our ideal. The peak was opened to climbing by the Ministry of Tourism Nepal, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyajo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machhermo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 An American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others. There may have been other attempts or even ascents of the peak prior to its official opening in 2002. At the location of our high camp (which is not the location of any camps from the above expeditions) we found a few old cans and rock tent site enclosures. So someone had been there before us.

Kyajo Ri Peak climbing info

  • Climbing Destination: Kyajo Ri Peak Summit
  • Group Size: Min - 1/12 Pax.
  • Highest Access : 6186 M
  • Best Season: May, October and November
  • Transportation:  Bus/Land Crusor
  • Climbing Grade: Moderate
  • Mode of Trekking: flight
  • Trekking Hour: Approx. 5-6 hours
  • Total Days: 14 Days
divider

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing Itinerary

Day 01
Arrival at Kathmandu (1348m)
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, Tribhuwan International Airport we will receive you with private vehicle and transfer to hotel in Kathmandu/Planet Bhaktapur in B/B plan. Our representative will give you information about further programs. As your request we go to short walk around old city area.
Day 02
Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.
In the morning after breakfast at 9 AM, we host a Pre-Trip meeting at your hotel in Kathmandu and introduced your trek Leader/Guide mean time and it will provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions about the your trek and to introduce you to other participants. This includes a final briefing and preparations for the trip.
Day 03
Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) and Trek to Phakding: 35 Min fly: 3:30 hrs trek
Early morning, fly together to Lukla. Lukla is a small town with an airport. There are few tea shops, lodges, hotels and general stores. You begin today’s trek from Lukla following a gentle climb up the mountainside on the left bank of the Dudh Koshi. Nupla (5885m) can be seen in the distance on the opposite bank, is a peak atop the Kongde Ridge. You descend a mountainside path that merges into your route to Everest, with views to a valley to your right; and at its far end, Kusum Kang (6367m.). The Dudh Kosi approaches as you pass a Mani wall and arrive at Ghat teahouse. You continue along a small path with many climbs and descents following the left bank of Dudh Koshi to Phakding.
Day 04
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.): 5 hrs

Thamserku looms skyward on the opposite bank. You cross a stream and climb the terraced hill from the Dudh Koshi route, to arrive at Benkar. The trail now climbs from the riverbed on the left bank into the mountain, through a forest to Chumoa. You continue along a path with many ups and downs; cross a stream, and pass by the tiny village of Monjo. Now you descend the path of stone steps and return to the right bank. After a short climb you come to Jorsale’s teahouse and hotel, also stop at the National Park entrance counter where National Park fee is collected. After your departure from Jorsale you enter a forested mountainside. You follow a short walk along the riverbed of this V-shaped valley where the river forks - the right is the Dudh Koshi and the left is the Bhote Koshi that leads to Nampa La. After short distance along the Bhote Kosi you begin the steep ascent to Namche Bazar. As the mountain path zigzags uphill, you will emerge at a ridge top rest area that offers excellent views of Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m.), The climb eases somewhat, and Namche Bazar appears ahead as you travel along the path surrounded by pines. Pass the plateau where the Saturday market is held and enter the village. Namche Bazar (3440m) is surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges and opens out only where it faces the Bhote Koshi. The village is a central hub of the area and food, sundries and even mountain climbing equipment may be purchased here.

Day 05
Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) day for acclimatization
Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khhumjung where you can visit monastery. Khhumjung is densely populated by Sherpa community. You can also enjoy the splendid views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Tawche and kongde. Or you can have an hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where you will have the amazing view of Mt.Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Cholatse, Tawoche, Kwangde, Kusum Kangaru and more.. There is an also good view from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town. This museum exhibits Sherpa culture.
Day 06
Namche Bazaar to Thame and Mende (3736m), 5 to 6 hrs
Having breakfast, we come out of Namche Bazar east part the monastery and begin with a short uphill trip. We have the Kongde Ri (6,187 m) on the left and the river that flows down into a narrow valley. On the right, you can see rocky Khumbi Yul La (5,765 m) peak and behind us is clearly visible on Kusum Kanguru (6,373 m). After an hour walk mostly downhill into the forest, then our trip continues: the steep rise of about 50 m in altitude to reach a ridge around it. The river bed becomes closer and wider to the Phorte village and then the small town of Samde. The trail stretch halfway up a slight slope leading to the bridge over the Bhote Koshi river (3,650 m) and get in Thame about a half hour climb. On returning from Thame, then we take eastern route up to Mende village via Thamo. The trail led us through the valley; we come across a few lone houses and some small fields, before crossing the river and climbing steeply up the hillside to the village of Mende. We make camp in Mende for overnight stay
Day 07
Trek to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4,550m), 4 to 5 hrs
After breakfast, we leave the main trails and follow a faint yak trail up over a couple of passes to enter the Kyajo Drangka; the isolated broad valley south of Kyajo Ri. The view of Mt. Thamserku, Khumbila, Kusum Kangaru, Kwangde, Pachharmo and surrounding Himalayan ranges are amazing. The Kyajo Ri Base Camp is set up in a nice place between the rocky mountain with flat ground summer yak pasture in a side of small river.
Day 08 - 09
Acclimatization & Climbing Preparation at Base Camp
Today is training day for climbing; our guide will brief you about the climbing requirements. Feel free to ask any question with your team leader and guides that you may have regarding the climb. Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and using climbing gears such as ice axe, climbing boot, harness, jhummer, and how to go up and down using ropes etc. The Guide teach you how to fix the ropes, climbing technique, and about the knot and gears. This training experience will boost up your confidence and climbing skills thus increasing the chances of scaling the summit as well as fully enjoy the experience. We will climb the nearby hills on the second day that would immensely help in acclimatization..
Day 10
Trek to Camp I (5,350m) - 4 to 5 hrs
After having breakfast, to ascend the Camp 1 at over 5,350 meters from base camp at around 4,600 meters involves a 2 hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. After half an hour walk the trails follows the upward rocky section with a lot of boulders and skid pebbles. Another 3 hours steep walk then we get to the Camp 1; enjoy the scenery of Kyajo Ri and small glacial lakes. We set up our camp here for the overnight stay.
Day 11
Rest & Acclimatization at Camp I (5,350m)
We need proper acclimatization before the summit push. This is an important phase of the expedition trip. We make some climbing practices toward Camp 2 (5,700m), and then get back to Camp 1 again, for gradual acclimatization. There may also be the need for rope fixing between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and this is a good day for that. We stay overnight at Camp I.
Day 12
Trek to Camp 2 (5,700m), 4 to 5 hrs
From Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves some technical climbing over mixed face slopes up to 55 degrees as well as negotiating through the glacier. The Camp 2 (5,700m) set up near the glacier with sufficient place for camping. We can see the climbing route the next day. If the weather favors us, we may also get pleasing sunlight in the day. We stay overnight at Camp 2 near big glacier lake..
Day 13
Summit day and descends to Camp 1 (5,350m) – 8 to 9 hrs
This is our summit day, so it begins in the early morning, at about 3:00 am after having light breakfast, we start to climb though the rocky part with big boulders and after a walk reach at Glacier part from where it’s fairly hard to climb. The ground steepens, and we climb snow and ice on the Southwest Ridge. There is one short rock section but primarily the climbing is on snow and ice. We get in Top “sharp summit is a narrow wedge of snow”. After spending some time in celebrations and taking pictures on the summit, we return back to Camp I. As you know that we are taking south east route and our leader will take you up to the summit and on the return back we should back to camp I for stay.
Day 14
Contingency day
It is not guarantee that we can get quite a favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 13). Thats why, we keep this day as a contingency in case if we are unable to summit the Kyajo Ri Peak on day 13 due to bad weather condition or some other reasons. If weather gets exceptionally unfavorable, we would have to wisely postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 13 for toady (Day 14). Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day.
Day 15
Trek back to Base Camp -4 to 5 hrs
We have made it! Today we return back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp, and celebrate the success of our trip. And stay overnight at camp.
Day 16
Base Camp to Namche (3,430m) -5 to 6 hrs
After having breakfast, we will clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche bazaar. After a great success we return back the same way via Mende, Thamo to Namche Bazaar. It takes about 5-6 hrs from Kyanjo Ri Base Camp to Namche Bazar. We stay overnight at Namche.
Day 17
Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,800m) -6 to 7 hours
After a long walk we'll have long last day trek back to Lukla today, we descend the long way before cross the bridge and further walk to Monju and stop in Phakding for lunch. We will remind again enjoying the lush green scenery around and passing through the incredible mountain scenery and local Sherpa village until Lukla. You'll have time to wander around the areas and guide will re-confirm your flight ticket and enjoy the last celebrate dinner with your crew and overnight at hotel.
Day 18
Fly back to Kathmandu -30 munities
Normally, the flight for Kathmandu is morning due to the wind in afternoon; sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason beyond our control. Anyway we will fly back to Kathmandu and your guide will transfer to hotel then you may have time to relax after long journey and take back your breath and rest at your hotel rest of day..
Day 19
Drop you to the kathamndu international airport for your onward programs.
Our Nepalese support team will take you to the airport for your flight home. (Or stay longer for short tours such as game drive at National parks, rafting, Tibet tours, mountain biking etc).
Spring season Autumn season
Start Date End Date Start Date End Date Availability Booking
March 10, 2012 April 02 2012 August 18, 2012 Sep 10,2012 Avialable Book Now
March 30,2012 April 22, 2012 Sep 08 ,2012 Oct 01, 2012 Avialable Book Now
April 10, 2012 May 03, 2O12 Sep 20, 2012 Oct 13, 2O12 Avialable Book Now
April 22, 2012 May 15, 2012 Oct 05, 2012 Oct 28, 2012 Avialable Book Now
April 30, 2012 May 23,2012 Oct 14, 2012 Nov 06,2012 Avialable Book Now
May 10, 2012 June 02 2012 Oct 25 , 2012 Nov 17 2012 Avialable Book Now
May 19, 2012 June 11, 2012 NOV 04, 10, 2012 Nov 29, 2012 Avialable Book Now
May 31,2012 June 23, 2012 Nov 15,2012 Dec 08, 2012 Avialable Book Now

Island Peak Climb Price Includes

  • Kathmandu International airport transfer by private car/van/bus.
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu valley with private car/van/bus.
  • 3 nights standard accommodation in Two/Three Star Hotel in Kathmandu (Bed with Breakfast).
  • All 3 major meals Breakfast /Lunch / Dinner (provide varieties continental food) and accommodation in tented camp during the trek en-route. (Twin sharing tent, dining tent, toilet tent, Kitchen tent, staff tent, Table, chairs and Kitchen utensil etc.).
  • Staff: (Professional English speaking trekking guide, 1 Cook, 1 Kitchen, 1 climbing guide & necessary porters. (1 assistant guide for 5 plus people).
  • Hot bucket Shower (Bath) during the trek.
  • Insurance for all the Nepalese staff.
  • Collective equipments such as a Climbing Rope, Ice screws, Snow bars, Tent, Snow Sawel.
  • Kyajo Ri Climbing peak permit/s & other necessary fees (US$ 350)
  • All necessary paper works and national park entry permits.
  • Domestic Flights: (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu) and applicable airport tax.
  • All required permits
  • Salary, Food, Drinks, Accommodation and Transportation for Nepali crew
  • Arrangement of Emergency Helicopter service which will be paid by your Travel insurance company.
  • Gokyo Treks Nepal's sleeping bag, down jackets, and walking stick, if necessary.
  • Gokyo Treks Nepal's provides Duffle/Kit bag and sun hat. (Keep yourself).
  • Farewell dinner
  • Medical supplies (first aid kit will be available).
  • All government applicable taxes.

Price Excludes

  • Nepal entry visa fee (you may easily issue the visa upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport - Kathmandu). You will require 2 passport size photos.
  • Your Travel insurance (Compulsory).
  • Food while you are in Kathmandu.
  • Entrance fees while sightseeing tour in Kathmandu valley.
  • Garbage Deposit (US$ 250), refundable after the climbing.
  • Personal Climbing equipment and your personal expenses.
  • All the alcoholic and non alcoholic Drinks.
  • Sweet things like chocolate.
  • Hot Shower during the Trek.
  • International airfare and airport departure tax.
  • Tips for the guide, porter & driver. (Tipping is expected but it is not mandatory).
  • Any others expenses which are not mentioned on including section.

Extra: Trip Advisor Notes :

  • USD 60 per person/per day extra, if you wish to extend your trekking in the mountain.
  • If you wish to take budget hotel in Kathmandu, USD 60 will be deducted from total trip cost.
  • USD 60 per night for single room and 80 per night for dauble room if you need extra accommodation in Kathmandu including breakfast.
  • No hidden price and single supplement charge !!!
We are associated with:
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P.O. Box No. 8974. C.P.C. 260 Kathmandu, Nepal
Email: info@sundarnepal.com
Phone +977 16910345, 9741 169528